Do I need to give my cat a bath? Everything you need to know about cat grooming

• Regular brushing can help keep your cat’s skin and haircoat healthy.
• Groom your cat when he or she is relaxed, and start with short sessions.
• Try to make grooming a pleasant experience for your cat. If your cat seems uncomfortable with being groomed, stop.
• Ask your veterinarian about the best way to care for your cat’s nails and teeth.

Grooming Basics

Cats are known for grooming themselves, but a little help is never wasted. Regular brushing can help keep your cat’s skin and haircoat healthy and can be another way to strengthen the relationship between you and your pet.

If you and your cat are new to grooming, start slow. Choose a time when your cat is relaxed, and keep sessions short (5 to 10 minutes). Give your cat plenty of petting and praise (and perhaps a treat) for good behavior. As you pet your cat, try to handle all parts of his or her body, including the feet, so that your cat becomes used to this activity. If at any time your cat seems uncomfortable with being handled or groomed, stop.

Brushing Your Cat

Brushing your cat helps to remove dirt and loose, dead hair and to prevent mats and tangles. How often you need to brush your cat depends on the length and thickness of his or her hair. Long-haired cats, like Persians, may need to be brushed daily. Short-haired cats may need brushing only weekly. By brushing your cat regularly, you will learn how often he or she needs to be brushed to keep his or her coat clean and tangle-free.

Regular brushing also helps reduce the amount of hair your cat swallows during grooming, which should lead to fewer hairballs.

There are several types of brushes and combs, including:

• Bristle brushes: Although these brushes can be used on all types of haircoats, the density, length, and stiffness of the bristles affect how well a specific brush works on a specific coat. Longer coats need longer, less dense bristles, and coarser coats need stiffer bristles.
• Wire-pin brushes: These brushes work best on medium to long, dense coats.
• Slicker brushes: These brushes have angled wire bristles. They can be used on all types of coats, and they help remove mats and tangles and make the haircoat look shiny.
• Undercoat rakes: These combs are useful for cats with double coats. They help thin out the undercoat, especially in the summer.

If you find a mat in your cat’s hair, do not pull on it. Pulling will be painful for your cat, and he or she will not want to be brushed again. Also, do not try to cut mats out—you may end up accidentally cutting yourself or your cat. Special brushes and combs are available to help split and remove mats; alternatively, consult your veterinarian or a reliable groomer. Sometimes mats must be professionally shaved.

Bathing Your Cat

Unlike dogs, most cats do not need to be bathed regularly. However, if your cat’s coat gets dirty or sticky, a bath may be necessary. Try to make bathing a pleasant experience for your cat: use warm (not hot) water, a mild shampoo made for cats (dilute as directed), and treats, petting, and praise as rewards for good behavior. Wear old clothes and keep plenty of large, absorbent towels on hand. If necessary, use a rubber bath mat to keep your cat from slipping.

Do not pour or spray water directly on your cat’s head. Mats and tangles are easier to remove by brushing before bathing. Trimming your cat’s nails before bathing is recommended.

Caring for Your Cat’s Nails and Teeth

Nail trimming and toothbrushing are also important aspects of grooming. Teaching your cat to accept having his or her feet touched can help make nail trimming easier.

Ask your veterinarian or a veterinary technician to teach you the safest way to perform these grooming activities.

My cat is always crying or screaming or meowing—what's going on?

• Excessive vocalization is called hypervocalization.
• If you think that your cat might be hypervocalizing because of pain, take him or her to your veterinarian.
• The most common reason that cats hypervocalize is that they have learned that it helps them get what they want.

Most cat owners appreciate some vocalization—meowing, purring, etc.—from their cats. The many sounds that cats make help us communicate with them by telling us what they like, dislike, want, and need. However, some cats vocalize excessively, which can become annoying to owners. Excessive vocalization is called hypervocalization.

Siamese cats and other Asian breeds known for being talkative usually can’t be trained to be quieter. Other cats hypervocalize for various reasons. Some cats hypervocalize when they’re in pain. If you think that your cat might be hypervocalizing because of pain, take him or her to your veterinarian.

The most common reason that cats hypervocalize is that they have learned that it helps them get what they want, whether it is to be let outside, fed, or petted. These hypervocalizers know that their owner will give in for some peace and quiet. Once the owner gives in, even if it takes half an hour, the cat learns that vocalizing works. The only way to reduce this type of hypervocalization is to ignore it and not reward it. You might have to wear earplugs or confine your cat to a room—whatever it takes to avoid giving in to your cat’s unwanted attention-seeking behavior. In addition, when you think that your cat is about to begin vocalizing, distract him or her with an interactive toy before the vocalizing begins. The interactive session with your cat will probably give him or her some much-needed mental and physical activity. At the end of the session, feed your cat or allow him or her to take a nap. In addition to being a distraction, interactive sessions can reduce hypervocalization caused by a lack of stimulation.

Cats may also hypervocalize as they become older and their senses decline. A common time for this type of hypervocalizing is when the house is dark at night. If your senior cat starts to  hypervocalize, take him or her to your veterinarian to ensure that he or she is not in pain. If your cat hypervocalizes at night, call out to him or her to help your cat find you. It might help to confine your cat to you

Pet insurance: Is it worth it or is it a scam?

• Pet insurance can help you budget for unforeseen medical expenses for your pet.
• It’s important to take a hard look at your budget and decide what you need in an insurance policy.
• “Bare bones” plans typically offer coverage for illnesses and emergencies; “comprehensive” policies tend to include reimbursement for routine care as well.
• Make sure you know what any insurance policy excludes before you purchase one.

The Assurance of Pet Insurance

Pet insurance can help you budget for unforeseen medical expenses for your pet. Generally, the premium cost for a good policy is low compared with the relative peace of mind and financial help it can offer. Sorting through the various plan choices and options, however, can be daunting. Here are some tips to help you make sense of the process.

It’s All About You

There is no cookie-cutter insurance policy that works for every pet owner. It’s important to take a hard look at your budget and decide what you need in an insurance policy. For example, do you want help with paying for routine care, such as well visits and vaccinations, or are you more worried about being able to afford emergency care for accidents or sudden illnesses? Perhaps you want help with both. Different insurance companies have different benefits packages, and it is helpful to research them until you find the one that best matches what you want. “Bare bones” plans typically offer coverage for illnesses and emergencies, like being hit by a car or ingesting a poisonous substance; “comprehensive” policies tend to include reimbursement for routine care as well. In some cases, insurance reimbursement for routine care expenses over the course of a year can significantly defray the cost of the annual premium.

Read the Fine Print

Make sure you know what any insurance policy excludes before you purchase one. Find out what the prospective insurer’s position is regarding preexisting or congenital (present since birth) conditions, and determine if there are any age limits for coverage. Some insurance companies won’t cover pets over a certain age, which can leave your pet without coverage at a time when he or she may need it most. Other policies may charge more if you own a specific breed or live in certain areas of the country. Be sure the policy does not limit you in your choice of veterinarian and that it offers you coverage for any needed specialty care, such as a visit to a veterinary dermatologist or ophthalmologist.

Avoid Sticker Shock

To avoid surprises, find out how your prospective insurer sets premiums. Do they change from year to year or do they stay the same? For example, some companies offer low initial premium payments when a pet is young but increase them exponentially as the pet ages. Others increase your premiums as you submit claims. Some policies also set high deductible limits, which is something to consider if you don’t want to spend hundreds of dollars out of pocket before your coverage begins.

Assess True Value

The only way to assess the real value of your policy is to determine exactly what you’ll get in return for your premium payments. A prospective insurer should be “transparent” about what they will pay for and how much they will cover. Find out if the company determines reimbursement based on a straight percentage of your bill, if it uses a customary fee schedule, or a combination of both. If the insurer uses a fee schedule, consider showing it to your veterinarian to make sure that what the insurance company considers to be a reasonable fee is in alignment with what your veterinarian actually charges. Otherwise, you could wind up paying a lot more out of pocket than you realize.

What’s the Limit?

All insurers place a lifetime maximum on how much they will pay out for health care costs over the course of a pet’s lifetime. So, even if the amount quoted seems generous, keep in mind that one or two major surgeries or illnesses over the course of a few years can really cut into that amount. Insurers also have different guidelines on how those limits are reached. For example, insurers may place limits on how much they will reimburse by claim, diagnosis, or total incident. Generally, the simpler the guideline, the easier it will be for you to keep track of it and estimate what reimbursement you can expect.

Examining Exclusions

If your pet has a preexisting condition or belongs to a breed well known for specific health problems, such as hip dysplasia, selecting insurance can be a little more complicated. However, even if your pet’s preexisting or congenital condition is excluded, pet insurance is still of value. It’s important, though, to question company representatives carefully on how the presence of a preexisting or congenital condition may affect reimbursement for other types of problems that may be considered related. Be sure to get responses in writing. Some insurers will insure a pet for a preexisting condition if enough time has elapsed since the initial incident or a cure can be documented. These waiting periods, however, can be quite extended. Also be aware that some policies “reset” at renewal time, meaning that a chronic illness that has developed during the course of the year will be considered a preexisting condition that will no longer be covered.

More Insurance Tips

• Find out how long the insurance company has been in business and how stable it is.
• The company’s claim submission process should be user friendly. Are the claim forms clear and easy to use? Can they be faxed in? Can you submit multiple claims on one form?
• Does the company offer multi-pet discounts?
• Does the policy cover your pet when traveling or in the care of a pet sitter or neighbor?
• Does the policy offer any value-added features, such as coverage of kennel fees if you become sick or treatment of behavior issues?

Bringing home a new kitten: what you need to know

• Your kitten must receive veterinary care before being introduced to other cats.
• Your kitten must be vaccinated against various diseases on a schedule, beginning at 2 to 3 months of age.
• Your kitten should be spayed or neutered by 6 months of age.
• Proper nutrition is especially important for kittens, which need two to three times as many calories and nutrients as adult cats.

The Basics

Bringing a new kitten home is exciting. The following guidelines will help you and your kitten adjust to this big change in your lives.

Kittens can leave their mother and littermates after they have been weaned, usually at 8 to 10 weeks of age. Like human babies, kittens require special care, including veterinary care, feeding, and socialization. The best time to bring a kitten home is when you have at least 1 or 2 days to focus on helping him or her adjust to new surroundings.

To safely transport your new kitten home, you’ll need a carrier. Leaving mom is a big deal for your kitten; a carrier will help him or her feel more secure. Don’t use another pet’s carrier because its smell could be stressful to your kitten. Place a towel in the carrier for warmth and to absorb urine in case of an accident. Carry an extra towel.

Before your kitten has contact with other cats, he or she must be tested for feline leukemia virus and feline immunodeficiency virus, given a physical examination, tested and treated for parasites, and vaccinated. This will prevent the spread of a disease or parasites to other pets. If you have other pets, talk to your veterinarian about how to introduce your kitten to them.

Before you bring your kitten home, prepare a small room or space that will be his or her own for the first few days or weeks. Having a smaller area to explore at first will help your kitten get comfortable with his or her new home. Cats don’t like to eat next to the litterbox, so place the litterbox on one side of the room and the food and water dishes on the other. Make sure that your kitten can get in and out of the litterbox without help; it might be necessary to provide a litterbox with low sides. To help your kitten feel secure, make sure that the room has hiding places. If there isn’t furniture to hide beneath, place cardboard boxes on their sides or cut doorways into them. Providing a warm, comfortable bed is essential. You can purchase a pet bed or line a box with something soft; using a sweatshirt that you’ve worn will help your kitten get used to your scent.

When you bring your kitten home, put the carrier in the room you’ve prepared. Open the carrier door, but let your kitten come out when he or she is ready. After your kitten comes out, leave the carrier in the corner as another hiding place. Every day, scoop out the litterbox and provide fresh food and water.

Your kitten may hide at first, but he or she will explore when no one is watching, becoming more comfortable with his or her new home. Your kitten will likely want plenty of attention from you—you’re his or her new mother/littermate!

After your kitten has been to your veterinarian, becomes comfortable in his or her room, and develops a regular routine of eating, drinking, and using the litterbox, you can let him or her venture into the rest of your house. At this point, you need to make sure that your kitten stays safe and has enough privacy to eat, sleep, and use the litterbox. Keep your kitten’s bed, litterbox, and food/water dishes in the same place so that he or she knows where to find them.

Veterinary Care

Kittens receive some immunity (protection against disease) from their mothers at birth and through nursing. Because this immunity slowly wears off, kittens should be vaccinated against various diseases on a schedule, beginning at 2 to 3 months of age. Ask your veterinarian for details.

Intestinal parasites are common in kittens. Fecal examinations and treatments (dewormings) are usually repeated until two consecutive fecal examinations have negative results. External parasites (fleas, ticks, and mites) are treated with products approved for use on kittens.

Kittens should be spayed or neutered by 6 months of age. This helps to control pet overpopulation and reduces the chance of behavior problems and some medical conditions.

Feeding

Proper nutrition is especially important for kittens, which need two to three times as many calories and nutrients as adult cats. A mother cat’s milk provides everything a kitten needs during the first 4 weeks of life. Cow’s milk should never be given to kittens or cats because it can give them diarrhea. Most kittens are completely weaned between 8 and 10 weeks of age. At 6 to 7 weeks of age, kittens should be able to chew dry food. Feed a name-brand kitten food with the American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) statement on the bag or labeluntil your kitten is approximately 9 to 12 months old. When your kitten is 3 to 6 months old, feed him or her three times per day. When your kitten is 6 months old, start feeding twice daily.

Socialization

Cats learn how to socialize with each other from their mother and littermates; therefore, if possible, kittens should remain with their mother and/or littermates until they are about 10 weeks old. Kittens that have human contact before they are 10 to 12 weeks old are more likely to interact well with people throughout their lives. Handling and playing with your kitten can help you bond with him or her. Feral (wild) cats haven’t been socialized with people as kittens and may fear and avoid people throughout their lives. Your kitten should be gradually introduced to other pets with care and supervision. Ask your veterinarian for advice on the best way to do this.

Enjoy your new kitten, and let your veterinarian know if you have any questions.

Kitten Supplies

• Brand-name kitten food with the American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) statement on the bag or label
• Food and water bowls; ceramic and metal are preferred because some pets are sensitive to plastic
• Cat toys that don’t have small parts or string that can come off and be swallowed
• Cat brush; brush your kitten gently twice weekly
• Cat toothpaste and toothbrush; it’s best to start toothbrushing during kittenhood; aim for at least three times per week
• Breakaway collar and identification tag
• Scratching post and/or pad; when your kitten uses it, reward him with praise and/or a feline treat
• Litterbox
• Litter; low-dust, unscented scoopable litter is best
• Cat carrier
• Cat bed

How to keep your cat off tables and counters (and what not to do)

• Cats naturally like high places, so keeping them off tables and counters can be difficult.
• It’s best not to try to stifle your cat’s natural jumping and climbing behavior. Your cat will be happier if you provide him or her with acceptable options for climbing and jumping.
• Never chase your cat away from an unacceptable place or yell at him or her. These punishments often don’t work and will teach your cat to fear you.
• Environmental “punishers” can be useful because they work when you aren’t present; therefore, your cat won’t associate you with the punishment or learn to wait until you’re not around to go to unacceptable places.

Cats naturally like high places, so keeping them off tables and counters can be difficult. Some people prefer that their cats stay off these surfaces for the following reasons:

• Cats may steal food and find harmful items, such as chicken bones.
• Cats can carry trace amounts of urine and feces from the litterbox to surfaces where people prepare and eat food.

These problems can be reduced if you clean your tables and counters regularly and don’t leave food out unattended. It can also help to understand your cat’s behavior and how to best change it.

Why Cats Like High Places

Cats like high places, such as tables and counters, for several reasons:

• High places give cats vantage points from which to survey their territory.
• High places provide safety from other household pets or anything else that scares cats.
• Elevated surfaces can become warm, safe places to sunbathe. The top of the refrigerator is another warm favorite of cats.
• Tables and counters can be a source of food and crumbs.

Providing Alternatives

It’s best not to try to stifle your cat’s natural jumping and climbing behavior. Your cat will be happier if you provide him or her with acceptable options for climbing and jumping. If you don’t, your cat will likely continue to go to unacceptable places.

Indoor cat “tree” furniture with bark or sisal posts and comfortable platforms and hiding places is ideal for cats. To add to the appeal of a cat tree, you can place comfortable bedding on the platforms or in the hiding places. You can also purchase or build cat shelves that attach to windowsills.

Discouraging Your Cat

Keeping tables and counters clean and free of food can make it easier to discourage your cat from visiting these surfaces. In addition, it can help to divide your cat’s daily food allowance into several small meals a day. Alternatively, you can try giving your cat his or her daily food allowance all at once to be eaten throughout the day; however, if your cat eats all the food at one sitting, this isn’t a good option.

It’s never a good idea to chase your cat away from an unacceptable place or yell at him or her. These punishments often don’t work and, instead, teach cats to fear their owners. Alternatives include:

• If you see your cat on a table or counter, quickly squirt your cat in the rear end with water from a squirt bottle or gun, but only when he or she isn’t looking. Make sure that the stream of water is strong enough for your cat to feel it through his or her haircoat. If you don’t want to use water, you can use a canister of compressed air. Never aim water or air at your cat’s face or ears.
• If you don’t have a squirt bottle/gun or a compressed air canister handy, simply pick up your cat, say “no” firmly without yelling, and put him or her on the floor.

Environmental “punishers” are a better option because they work when you aren’t present; therefore, your cat won’t associate you with the punishment or learn to wait until you’re not around to go to the unacceptable places. Instead, your cat will learn that it’s never safe to go to those places. Commercially available punishers can be used, but here are some ideas for homemade deterrents:

• Cats generally do not like the smell of citrus or disinfectants, so use a cleaner with a citrus odor to keep your tables and counters clean.
• Get several inexpensive plastic placemats and cover one side of each with double-sided tape or Sticky Paws. Then put the placemats sticky-side up on the unacceptable surfaces. Remove the placemats only when you need to use the surfaces, and replace them as soon as you’re done. It may take several days for your cat to decide that sticky tables and counters aren’t so great after all. Plain aluminum foil can be used instead of sticky placemats.
• Put a few pennies inside several aluminum cans, and cover the openings with tape. Line up the cans along the edge of the unacceptable surfaces. When your cat tries to jump on the surfaces, the cans are likely to fall and scare him or her away.

For punishment to be effective, it must be consistent. Don’t confuse your cat by allowing him or her to be on the table or counter sometimes. Your cat won’t understand the difference.

Find a Cat That Doesn’t Like Heights

When you’re looking for a new cat, you might be able to find one that doesn’t like heights. Some domestic shorthaired cats don’t like heights, but you’d have to learn this from a previous owner before adopting the cat. Another option is to find a cat of the ragdoll breed, which reportedly dislikes heights.

What Not to Do

• Do not scold or hit your cat for going to unacceptable places. This kind of punishment is highly unlikely to be effective and will teach your cat to fear you.
• Do not shoo or push your cat off counters and tables. A sudden jump or fall could injure your cat.
• Never use an environmental punisher that could physically harm your cat. Environmental punishers should only startle your cat or make a place uncomfortable.
• Never point a water bottle/gun or compressed air canister at your cat’s face or ears, and never let your cat see you use these devices on him or her.

Never let your cats “fight it out.” Here's why

• Non-recognition aggression occurs when one cat is uncharacteristically aggressive toward a companion cat after a period of separation.
• Never let your cats “fight it out.” Interrupt aggression or fighting by clapping your hands loudly, squirting the aggressive cat with a water gun, or directing compressed air (without noise) at the aggressive cat.
• The aggressive cat should be confined and gradually reintroduced to the other cat using the guidelines below.
• Non-recognition aggression may be prevented by following the measures below.
• Any sudden change in your cat’s behavior could be a sign of a medical condition requiring a visit to your veterinarian.

The Basics

Aggression refers to threats or attacks. Aggressive acts in cats include hissing, growling, swatting, chasing, and biting. Cats can have various kinds of aggressive behaviors. Non-recognition aggression occurs when one cat is uncharacteristically aggressive toward a companion cat after a period of separation. For example, after one cat returns home from a veterinary visit, the cat that stayed home is aggressive toward the returning cat, who may flee, freeze (hold still), or fight back.

The cause of this type of aggression is not fully understood. Possible causes include the following:

• The returning cat is unrecognizable and/or perceived as a threat because he or she smells like the veterinarian’s office.
• The smell of alcohol or disinfectant on the returning cat reminds the aggressive cat of a negative experience at the veterinarian’s office.
• The returning cat may have discharged his or her anal sacs at the veterinarian’s office. The discharge may contain a pheromone (a natural feline odor that humans can’t smell) that signals danger to your other cat, causing him or her to become aggressive.

What to Do

Never let your cats “fight it out.” Cats don’t resolve their issues through fighting. Interrupt aggression or fighting by clapping your hands loudly, squirting the aggressive cat with a water gun, or directing compressed air (without noise) at the aggressive cat. Try to “herd” the aggressor into a separate room so that he or she can calm down, which might take several hours. If necessary, cover the aggressor with a large towel to help calm and handle him or her. Don’t try to soothe your cats right away; just give them time to calm down. An agitated cat may become aggressive toward any pet or person who gets close. If necessary, keep the aggressor confined overnight with food, water, and a litterbox.

Reintroduce your two cats only when the aggressor has completely calmed down and is back to normal. It may help to reintroduce your cats gradually through a screen, gate, or cracked door before allowing them full access to each other. Place your cats’ food bowls on opposite sides of the barrier to encourage them to be close together while doing something they enjoy.Onceboth cats appear relaxed, open the barrier between them little by little. If your cats remain relaxed, they may be ready to be together again. If they show signs of aggression (e.g., growling, spitting, hissing, swatting), separate them again and restart the process of gradual reintroduction.

Your two cats are likely to reestablish a relationship or at least tolerate each other, but future episodes of non-recognition aggression may be likely.

Prevention

Non-recognition aggression may be prevented by taking the following measures after bringing a cat home from your veterinarian’s office and before reintroducing him or her to your other cat(s):

• Ensure that your cat has fully recovered from sedation or anesthesia.
• Bathe your cat to remove veterinary odors.
• Keep your returning cat separate from your other cat(s) to give them time to remember each other’s sounds and odors.

The following general guidelines can also help to reduce aggression:

• Neuter your cats. Unneutered males are especially prone to aggression.
• Separate your cats’ resources. Reduce competition between them by providing multiple, identical food bowls, beds, and litterboxes in different areas of your house.
• Provide additional feline-friendly areas (e.g., hiding spots) to allow your cats to space themselves out as they prefer.
• Reward your cats for getting along. Praise them or give them treats when you see them interacting in a friendly manner.
• Try using pheromones. Feliway (Ceva Animal Health, Inc., St. Louis, MO) is a product that mimics feline pheromones that may reduce tension between your cats.

Find Help

Any change in your cat’s behavior could be a sign of a medical condition. If your aggressive cat’s behavior does not improve, take your cat to your veterinarian for a checkup. In addition, you may consider contacting a certified applied animal behaviorist (CAAB or ACAAB after the last name) or a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (DACVB after the last name). These qualified experts can evaluate the problem and help you manage or resolve the conflict between your cats.

Signs of an Attacking Cat

• Staring with constricted (small) pupils
• Piloerection (raised hair) along the shoulders and tail
• Facing the returning cat and appearing ready to pounce

Signs of a Defensive (Returning) Cat 

• Dilated pupils: the center (iris) of the eyes opens so that the pupils become large
• Ears pressed back against the head
• Arched back
• Piloerection (raised hair)
• Facing the aggressor sideways
• Hissing, spitting, and/or growling
• Rolling onto back to fight if there’s no escape

How can I socialize my kitten? And why do I need to do it?

• Socialization is the learning process through which kittens become accustomed to being near various people, animals, and environments.
• Proper socialization can help eliminate behavior problems in the future and create a better bond between the pet and the family.
• When introducing kittens to new people, pets, or environments, provide praise or treats so the kitten associates a positive experience with each new stimulus.
• Do not introduce your kitten to other cats until he or she has been properly vaccinated; consult your veterinarian to determine when your kitten is ready to be around other cats.

What Is Kitten Socialization?

Socialization is the learning process through which a kitten becomes accustomed to being near various people, animals, and environments. By exposing kittens to different stimuli in a positive or neutral way, before they can develop a fear of these things, owners can reduce the likelihood of behavior problems in the future and help build a stronger bond between pets and the rest of the family. The critical time to socialize a kitten is during the first 3 to 4 months of its life.

Why Is Kitten Socialization Important?

Unfortunately, behavior problems remain the top reason that pets are relinquished to animal shelters. Proper socialization will help make kittens more tolerant of changes in their environment and help prevent common behavior problems in the future.

Why Should I Consider Kitten Kindergarten?

Attending a kitten training class led by a training specialist gives your kitten an opportunity for socialization with other kittens and with children and adults. Kitten kindergarten classes are offered by some veterinary clinics and pet supply stores. 

Reputable training facilities will require that your kitten is vaccinated and dewormed before attending the course to ensure that kittens aren’t exposed to diseases or parasites when their immune system is still developing. Vaccinations should be given at least 10 to 14 days before the class. Before attending class, kittens should test negative for feline leukemia virus (FeLV) and feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV). Kittens should also be free of potentially contagious diseases such as upper respiratory infections and ringworm. Check with the training facility about their specific requirements. Also, consult your veterinarian to determine when your kitten is ready for class.

How Else Can I Socialize My Kitten?

The goal of socialization is to expose your kitten to different people, animals, environments, and stimuli in a safe manner, without overwhelming your pet.

Start by familiarizing your kitten with your touch. Whenever possible, you should handle your kitten’s paws, ears, mouth, and body. Once your kitten is comfortable with being handled, it will be easier for you to trim nails, brush teeth, clean ears, and give medications.

Next, introduce your kitten to people of different ages, sexes, heights, and races. If your kitten tolerates it, allow other people to touch his or her paws, ears, mouth, and body. This will help your kitten be more comfortable with being handled by others at the veterinary clinic or grooming facility.

It’s also important for your kitten to learn to be comfortable around other animals. Kitten kindergarten is a safe place to expose your pet to other kittens, because vaccination is usually required for all participants. In general, you should avoid exposing your kitten to other cats until he or she has been properly vaccinated. Exposing your kitten to an infectious disease, such as panleukopenia (feline distemper), when his or her immune system is still developing can have devastating results.

Kittenhood is also a great time to familiarize your kitten with all the sights and sounds of his or her world, from riding in a car to being around a vacuum cleaner. Once your kitten has been properly vaccinated, you can take your kitten to places such as the grooming or boarding facility to expose him or her to different sights, sounds, and smells. Each time you introduce your pet to a new stimulus, make sure to provide positive reinforcement in the form of praise, petting, or treats so that your pet associates a positive experience with new people, pets, or environments.

If your kitten will be indoor only, with limited exposure to other pets or environments, you may want to limit the number of pets and environments your kitten interacts with during the socialization period to minimize potential exposures to infectious diseases. Always discuss your socialization plans with your veterinarian before exposing your kitten to other pets and environments.

The goal of socialization is to expose your kitten to different people, animals, environments, and stimuli in a safe manner, without overwhelming your pet.

Start by familiarizing your kitten with your touch. Whenever possible, you should handle your kitten’s paws, ears, mouth, and body. Once your kitten is comfortable with being handled, it will be easier for you to trim nails, brush teeth, clean ears, and give medications.

Next, introduce your kitten to people of different ages, sexes, heights, and races. If your kitten tolerates it, allow other people to touch his or her paws, ears, mouth, and body. This will help your kitten be more comfortable with being handled by others at the veterinary clinic or grooming facility.

Why won't my cat use her litterbox? (And how to train a new kitten to pee in the right place)

• Cats are usually easy to litterbox train because they prefer to bury their waste.
• Cats may refuse to use the litterbox if something about it is unappealing.
• If you are having trouble litterbox training your cat, let your veterinarian know.

Basic Training

Cats are usually easy to litterbox train because they are naturally clean and prefer to bury their waste. First, make sure that your cat knows where the litterbox is. Confine your cat to a small area or room with clean water, fresh food, and a clean litterbox until he or she is successfully using the litterbox and seems comfortable. Do not use a covered litterbox during the training period because it might complicate the process. If your cat urinates or defecates outside the litterbox, place the waste in the litterbox; the smell should help your cat find and use the litterbox in the future. If your cat isn’t using the litterbox after a day or two, do the following: After your cat eats, place him or her in the litterbox, and briefly scratch the litter with your finger. However, don’t force your cat to stay in the litterbox; you don’t want your cat to have a negative experience in the litterbox.

Reasons a Cat Won’t Use the Litterbox

Cats may refuse to use the litterbox if something about it is unappealing. If your cat won’t use the litterbox, try addressing the following bulleted list, but do not punish your cat. He or she may have a medical or behavior problem that your veterinarian can address.

• The type of litter is unappealing. Most cats prefer an unscented, scoopable (sandlike) litter. Many owners also prefer scoopable litters because they control odors and absorb liquid (clump) well.
• The litterbox location is unappealing. Most cats prefer a quiet place with several escape routes. Keep your cat’s food dishes as far as possible from the litterbox.
• The litterbox is dirty. Scoop it out at least twice daily, add new litter as needed, and wash the box with baking soda or an unscented soap and fill it with clean litter once a week.
• The litterbox is too small.
• The litterbox has a liner or hood, which some cats dislike.
• The litterbox isn’t easily accessible.
• There aren’t enough litterboxes. Provide one litterbox per cat, plus one extra box.
• There’s too much litter in the litterbox. Most cats prefer the litter to be 1 to 2 inches deep.

If you are having trouble litterbox training your cat, let your veterinarian know.

Cleanup

Do not clean up your cat’s “accidents” with an ammonia-based cleanser. Because urine contains ammonia, cleaning with an ammonia-based product could tempt your cat to urinate in the same spot again. Instead, use a product specifically for cleaning pet accidents.

Why is my cat peeing on things and how do stop the behavior?

• Feline urine marking is a normal form of communication between cats.
• Cats mark with urine to claim their territory.
• Urine marking occurs most commonly in male cats that have not been neutered.
• A cat that is urine marking typically stands upright with its tail erect, and sprays a small amount of liquid on walls and other vertical surfaces. 
• A diagnosis is made once other medical and behavioral reasons for urinating outside the litterbox have been ruled out.
• Neutering or spaying the cat is the most effective treatment.
• Treatment also may include methods to reduce stress in the cat’s environment and/or anti-anxiety medications.

What Is Feline Urine Marking?

Feline urine marking is a behavior in which cats mark a location with urine to notify other cats of their territory. Often it occurs near door and windows as a way to communicate to neighborhood tomcats wandering through the yard. Although this is a normal behavior in cats, most owners consider it unacceptable when it occurs in the house. Any cat can exhibit marking behaviors, but it tends to occur in male cats that have not been neutered.

Although hormones may be behind urine marking, stress and anxiety also are causes. Any changes in the household, such as the addition of other pets, workers in the house, or a recent vacation by the owner, may compel the cat to reassert its territory.

What Are The Signs Of Urine Marking?

A cat that is urine marking typically stands upright with its tail erect, and sprays a small amount of liquid on walls and other vertical surfaces. This is different than a cat that is simply urinating outside the box, and not attempting to mark its territory. In those cases, the cat will squat, and eliminate urine on a horizontal surface. Occasionally, a marking cat may spray on horizontal surfaces, such as bedding or laundry.

How Is Urine Marking Diagnosed?

Your veterinarian will probably want to check a urine sample to make sure that your cat doesn’t have a medical reason for urinating outside the litterbox. If the urinary tract is inflamed, infected, or irritated by urinary crystals, there are treatments that can relieve the signs and encourage the cat to return to the litterbox. Some other medical conditions, such as bladder stones, diabetes, and kidney disease, also can cause a cat to urinate outside the litterbox. Your veterinarian may recommend additional tests, such as blood work and x-rays, to investigate these and other possibilities. 

There may be other reasons why your cat is eliminating outside the litterbox. Cats are fastidious creatures, and may avoid the box if it is not clean enough, if they don’t like the scent or texture of the litter, or if the box is located near a high traffic area in the house. Again, in these cases, the cat is usually urinating on horizontal surfaces, rather than on vertical surfaces.

Once other causes of inappropriate elimination are ruled out, a diagnosis of feline urine marking may be made.

How Is Urine Marking Treated?

The most effective treatment for urine marking is to neuter or spay your cat, if it has not been done already. Ninety percent of male cats stop marking once they have been neutered.

Reducing stress in the cat’s environment may help, as well. Synthetic pheromone products are available from your veterinarian in spray or plug-in diffuser forms. These products have a calming effect on many cats.

To discourage neighborhood cats from approaching doors and windows, consider using a spray deterrent that is activated by motion detectors. You also should supply your cat a place to escape from children or other pets in the household, such as a room, cubby, or perch. If all else fails, ask your veterinarian if anti-anxiety medications may be appropriate for your pet.

Make sure your cat doesn't go near any of these 10 household plants

• Over 700 indoor/outdoor plants contain toxic substances that may harm dogs and cats.
• If these plants are ingested, signs of poisoning can be mild to severe, sometimes even causing death.
• Most houseplants have multiple names, so it is important to confirm that the houseplants you currently own or may purchase are not toxic to your pet.

Asparagus Fern

Asparagus fern (also called emerald feather, emerald fern, sprengeri fern, plumosa fern, and lace fern) is toxic to dogs and cats. The toxic agent in this plant is sapogenin—a steroid found in a variety of plants. If a dog or cat ingests the berries of this plant, vomiting, diarrhea, and/or abdominal pain can occur. Allergic dermatitis (skin inflammation) can occur if an animal is repeatedly exposed to this plant.

Corn Plant 

Corn plant (also known as cornstalk plant, dracaena, dragon tree, and ribbon plant) is toxic to dogs and cats. Saponin is the toxic chemical compound in this plant. If this plant is ingested, vomiting (with or without blood), appetite loss, depression, and/or increased salivation can occur. Affected cats may also have dilated pupils.

Dieffenbachia

Dieffenbachia (commonly known as dumb cane, tropic snow, and exotica) is toxic to dogs and cats. Dieffenbachia contains a chemical that is a poisonous deterrent to animals. If this plant is ingested, oral irritation can occur, especially on the tongue and lips. This irritation can lead to increased salivation, difficulty swallowing, and vomiting.

Elephant Ear

Elephant ear (also known as caladium, taro, pai, ape, cape, via, via sori, and malanga) contains a chemical similar to the one in dieffenbachia, so an animal’s toxic reaction to elephant ear is similar: oral irritation, increased salivation, difficulty swallowing, and vomiting.

Lilies

Many plants of the lily family are considered toxic to cats, and some are considered toxic to dogs. Cats are the only animals in which the Easter and stargazer lilies are known to be toxic. Generally, a cat’s first toxic reaction to this plant includes vomiting, lethargy, and a lack of appetite, but severe kidney failure, and even death, can quickly follow if a cat is untreated. The peace lily (also known as Mauna Loa) is toxic to dogs and cats. Ingestion of the peace lily or calla lily can cause irritation of the tongue and lips, increased salivation, difficulty swallowing, and vomiting.

Cyclamen

Cyclamen (also known as sowbread) is a pretty, flowering plant that is toxic to dogs and cats. If ingested, this plant can cause increased salivation, vomiting and diarrhea. If an animal ingests a large amount of the plant’s tubers—which are found at the root, generally below the soil—heart rhythm abnormalities, seizures, and even death can occur.

Heartleaf Philodendron

Heartleaf philodendron (also known as horsehead philodendron, cordatum, fiddle-leaf, panda plant, split-leaf philodendron, fruit salad plant, red emerald, red princess, and saddle leaf) is a common, easy-to-grow houseplant that is toxic to dogs and cats. This philodendron contains a chemical that  can irritate the mouth, tongue, and lips of animals. An affected pet may also experience increased salivation, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing.

Jade Plant

Jade plant (also known as baby jade, dwarf rubber plant, jade tree, Chinese rubber plant, Japanese rubber plant, and friendship tree) is toxic to cats and dogs. The toxic property in this plant is unknown, but ingestion of it can cause vomiting, depression, ataxia (incoordination), and bradycardia (slow heart rate; this is rare).

Aloe Plant

Aloe plant (also known as medicine plant and Barbados aloe) is a common, succulent plant that is toxic to dogs and cats. Aloin is considered the toxic agent in this plant. This bitter, yellow substance is found in most aloe species and may cause vomiting and/or the urine to become reddish.

Satin Pothos

Satin pothos (also known as silk pothos) is toxic to dogs and cats. If ingested by a cat or dog, this plant may irritate the mouth, lips, and tongue. The pet may also experience an increase in salivation, vomiting, and/or difficulty swallowing.

Learn More

For a full list of toxic and non-toxic indoor and outdoor plants, visit the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) website at www.aspca.org or The Humane Society of the United States website at www.humanesociety.org.

Should I board my cat or have a cat sitter come to the house?

It's hard to decide what's best for your kitty—especially when you're planning to be away from home for more than a few days. At Bon Voyage Pet Sitting, we believe that keeping your cat in their usual environment is the most comfortable and stress-free option for them. We'll visit several times a day, pay close attention to how your kitty is acting and do everything we can to make them feel like everything is normal. We'll even sleepover if you'd like!

Here are some additional reasons to keep your pet at home and stay away from boarding:

WHAT ARE THE ADVANTAGES FOR MY PET?

• Reduced Stress. Your pet stays in its own familiar secure environment where all the sights, smells and sounds say "Home!"

• Diet and Exercise. Customary diet and exercise routines are followed, with no interruption to upset your pet.

• No "Travel Trauma". Travel in a vehicle to boarding facility or kennel may upset your pet.

• Health Concerns. With a pet sitter, there is minimal exposure to illness of other animals.

• T L C. Most importantly, your pet receives love and personal attention while you are away.

WHAT ARE THE ADVANTAGES FOR ME?

• Travel. You won't be inconvenienced or upset by transporting your pet outside of San Francisco.

• No Imposition. You don't have to impose on a friend, neighbor or relative to care for your pet, but instead rely on a pet care professional who will put you pet's needs first.

• Security. Your San Francisco home is made more secure by the crime deterrent services provided by most pet-sitting services.

• Peace of Mind. While you're away, you can feel confident your pet is in capable, caring hands.

• Special Services. Pet sitters can provide additional home services while caring for your pet, such as watering plants and bringing in the mail.

How do I make sure my cat is safe in my house while I am away for holiday vacation?

Preparation can make a big difference in how smoothly things go for your pet when the pet sitter comes to visit.

Here are some tips:

• Make sure the pet sitter has a phone number where you can be reached.
• If inside services are requested, provide the cat sitter with a house key in addition to garage door openers.
• If you have new keys made, try them out to make sure they work.
• Clean food and water dishes before leaving town.
• Provide extra food, litter and other supplies just in case you're not able to return when planned.
• Clean out the refrigerator to avoid smelly food spoilage and wash the dishes in the sink to prevent ants, flies or other pests.
• Adjust the thermostat to keep the house comfortable for the pet during your absence. In warm weather, a closed-up house can get dangerously hot in a short time.
• Leave a list of phone numbers in case the pet sitter needs to contact service or maintenance companies while you are away; i.e., plumber, electrician, cleaning service, yard maintenance, pool service, etc.
• Tell the pet sitter of any household areas that are off-limits to your pets or to the pet sitter. Secure access to those areas before leaving home.

You can help your pet sitter be a better friend to your pet by helping to make sure there are no problems while you are away. Planning and preparation in the following areas will smooth the way:

• Tell the cat sitter about all health problems your pet may have- major or minor.
• Provide written verification that your pet is up to date on its vaccinations.
• Make a list of your pet's favorite hiding places. This will prevent the pet sitter from worrying if your pet is not where expected-the sitter will know where to look.
• Provide your own preferred method of flea control, even if your pets are currently flea free. Fleas multiply rapidly and can become a problem very quickly.

Jack and Louie: A Tale of Two Kitties (and Their Mom)

He's my Batman, and he's my Robin. They are Jack and Louie, respectively. And they have been a part of my life for as long as I can remember. My dear, gray kitties, my two adorable sons ' and they are both living with cancer.

'Kitty Cancer.' Two words no pet owner would ever, ever want to hear from the veterinarian. But it happened to me, twice. And unfortunately it could happen to you, too, or someone you know.

We don't often read stories about our animals being diagnosed with and treated for diseases like cancer. Usually the pages of newspapers and magazines and the television and radio waves are reserved for heartbreaking human struggles with illnesses, the latest in research for cures and treatments in human medicine, or coverage of this walk or that marathon to raise money and awareness for certain diseases. And rightly so. However, there's another story here.

What often does not get attention is the unique pet-owner experience of living with and caring for pets who have a serious illness, the struggles you and your animal go through, the connections you make along the way, and the importance of maintaining hope and humor as you strive to make your pet's (or pets') journey as easy as possible.

Jack (Batman)Jack (aka my Batman) was my first baby boy. Now 14 years old, he is a handsome Russian Blue who can take your breath away with his deeply intense jade green eyes. When I pick him up, he lets me hold him like a newborn and gives me kisses in my ear. Very George Clooney. Upon seeing him, no one would ever guess that he has been living with cancer since September 2006!

I knew something was wrong when he started having tummy problems, and Jack's regular veterinarian made a couple of diagnoses, neither of which I thought was correct. (Pet owners know their animals in the way parents know their children — like no one else.) They did some tests, and the lab work confirmed my worst nightmare: When I looked at the results, all I could see was 'lymph'-this and 'lymph'-that. Lymphoma. Jack was given between three weeks and three months to live. Crushed, I promptly took Jack for a second opinion.

Somewhat by accident, I ended up at San Francisco Veterinary Specialists in the Mission District of the city. (Yes, there are specialists for our animals, just as there are specialists for humans!) During our first appointment with SFVS oncologist Dr. Carlos Rodriguez, I told him that he'd better be like David Blaine and pull some magic tricks out of his doctor's bag — that we were going to treat this cat's lymphoma. Jack was going to be all right.

Lymphoma is a type of cancer that involves cells of the immune system (called lymphocytes). Cats have a higher risk of suffering from lymphoma than people or dogs do. And Jack fits right in with the statistics: Male cats between the ages of 9 and 13 have the highest risk of developing feline lymphoma. Depending on the kind of lymphoma, the cancer can affect the abdominal area, the spleen, the liver, the chest cavity or the digestive tract, among other areas. Symptoms depend on the kind of lymphoma the cat has.

In his bright Hawaiian shirt, Dr. Rodriguez gave me hope. He told me that he would be with Jack and me every step of the way. And that he would help me decide, if the time came, whether Jack's quality of life did not warrant further treatment. So we began a regimen of fluids and all kinds of medicine, and this Wonder Cat of mine has been living with lymphoma for over a year and a half now.

Of course, it has not been easy. I would wake up in the morning and ask myself, 'Can I commit to this? To taking Jack to the vet every week? To seeing his energy levels go up and down? To worrying about whether he is suffering?' But with continued support from the doctors and staff, along with my friends and family, Jack and I continued along our path.

In fact, we hit him so hard with the treatments that he developed feline diabetes. And so to another specialist at SFVS we went, this time to Dr. Craig Maretzki, who is an internal medicine doctor. We began treatment for his diabetes, but sadly Jack did not respond to the insulin. Dr. Maretzki got a bit creative for us, thankfully, and suggested switching Jack's diet. And, believe it or not, the simple change in food cured his diabetes. How grateful I was to Dr. Maretzki and his staff for not giving up on my Jack, for trying whatever they could think of!

Jack continues to be my home's resident king, taking his spot in his warm cat bed and watching over everyone and everything. I am so proud of my Jack for defying his original prognosis, and of the doctors and staff at SFVS for helping us so much along the way.

Unfortunately, our stories do not end there. Just a few months ago, Louie (Robin, to Jack's Batman) received some very bad news. He was diagnosed with the 'silent cancer' — stomach cancer. Truly, I thought, this must be a pet owner's worst nightmare.

Eleven-year-old Louie is an extremely sophisticated British Short Hair, and I tell him that he is every senior girl's dream prom date, with hiscute, chubby cheeks and dimples that you can see when he purrs. (Really, he would look great in a powder-blue tuxedo.)

I had originally taken Louie in to SFVS just to show him off: 'Here is my healthy, sweet kitty!' Dr. Maretzki was holding him and suddenly asked if he could keep Louie for a few hours. Of course I gasped and imagined the worst. And, sadly, soon I received the horrible news about Louie's stomach cancer.

All of the research I had done on Jack's lymphoma didn't help me much with this, because stomach cancer is a whole new ballgame. The treatment is completely different, as is the prognosis. They call it the 'silent cancer' because the symptoms start out barely noticeable, and then the cancer progresses secretly until it is so severe that treatment is difficult. Symptoms can include a wide range of issues, from lack of interest in food, to vomiting, to lethargy and anemia.

With Jack doing okay, we promptly began hitting Louie's cancer hard with chemotherapy treatments. One a week. Every Friday. Luckily, I had already established a good relationship with Drs. Rodriguez and Maretzki and the oncology staff, so they had my trust and confidence. I knew that they loved Jack and would come to love Louie, and would do anything and everything they could to save their lives.

Week One. Week Two. Week Three. By the third week, the doctor did an ultrasound to check the status of the stomach cancer. Surprise! It was gone! Louie showed no cancer on the ultrasound. I was elated beyond belief. Week Four. Week Five. Week Six. Oh, no. Week Six. Louie began vomiting and wasn't interested in his food. I knew something was wrong. The ultrasound confirmed my fear: The cancer was back.

As I write this, we are still hitting Louie's cancer with everything we've got. He's even gained a little weight. The one thing they don't tell you about chemotherapy — it changes taste buds. One day, Louie will go nuts for the 'Sliced Chicken' canned food; the next day he won't have anything but 'Ocean Fish.' It's trial and error, really. One day I popped open 22 cans of cat food, letting Louie smell the different flavors, until he decided on one he liked. (People will do anything for their animals.)

Some people may think the idea of putting a pet through the process of chemotherapy is cruel, but I can safely say that it's not. Chemotherapy treatment affects animals completely differently than it does humans. They experience fewer side effects than we do: Their hair doesn't fall out (although sometimes kitties' whiskers disappear); they don't get the terrible nausea that humans experience; they might even gain a little weight, as my Louie has.

People ask me how in the world I cope with having two sick kitties. And I tell them that they are my best friends. That I'll do anything in my power to make their lives happy and comfortable. And that when it no longer makes sense for us to continue on, we'll make that call. I can rest easy in the fact that the doctors, staff and I are all part of a team — a team that always has Jack's and Louie's quality of life as the top priority.

For a pet owner who may have just found out the sad news that an animal is sick, I would encourage her to always, always get a second opinion — just as she would if it were her child, spouse or self. Frankly put, there are more alternatives for treating our pets' illnesses than bad medicine and euthanasia. Lots more. With recent advances in the detection and treatment of various diseases, people and their pets have more options, and hope, than ever before.

Find a veterinarian whom you can trust completely, can rely on, and can have a 'lay-it-all-out-on-the-table' conversation. See a specialist if you can, as they may know of treatments and options that a general veterinarian might not be aware of. Work with them to constantly surmise the pet's quality of life. Lean on them to help you make the tough decisions. Jack, Louie and I have been blessed to not only find doctors at SFVS like this, but who also make us laugh along the way, who make us remember that hope is so, so important.

I would also encourage the pet owner to do loads and loads of research on the specific type of illness her pet has. Understanding the disease, its symptoms and mainstream treatments, along with any alternative treatments, goes a long way.

I often think about the fact that people who have had animals with cancer are in some ways better prepared to deal with the news of a loved (human) one who is diagnosed with the disease. They will have done the research and will know what the options are. They will have gone through the schedules of treatment and experienced the various states of shock and worry and frustration and hope and all the rest.

Another thing to consider is the fact that there's an increasingly large intersection between the cancer research being done for human medicine and that being done for our pets; each stream helps and feeds into the other. My hope is that someday, with all the promising, groundbreaking research going on in the biotechnology community, we'll have new therapies with which to tackle cancer. (Think effective, economical gene therapies that target an individual's specific cancer, as opposed to the traditional chemotherapy route, which may or may not work. It's not so far off.)

There is not one minute of the day that I don't wonder, 'How's Jack doing today? What's Louie feeling like right now?' I worry about how Jack will feel if Louie goes away, and how Louie will feel if Jack goes away. They've been together — and with me — for so long now. But they are not ready to leave me just yet. And I know that they'll let me know when the time arrives. In the meantime, I need to go out and buy some more cat food tins.

Litter Box Problems

Litter box problems are a common problem with house cats. Let's talk about some of the more common causes of bad litter box behavior.

1. Dirty litter: Cats don't like dirty litter. If the litter isn't fresh enough, they'll simply do their business elsewhere. Remember, their definition of dirty might not necessarily agree with yours.
2. Stress: Cats subjected to sudden stress often react by letting go in inappropriate places. Some cats are more susceptible than others. New cats, dogs, or kids in the home or neighborhood can easily bring on an episode. Different surroundings in general can be stressful. Either of these factors can easily overwhelm your feline.
3. Illness: Any of a range of minor and serious illnesses, especially urinary tract problems, can cause litter box problems, so be sure to check with your vet if your cat starts exhibiting unusual elimination behaviors. So, if you've ruled out the other 2 causes, be sure to check with your veterinarian.

Establishing Good Habits Following some simple guidelines is a good way to establish appropriate litter box habits or to correct inappropriate ones.

1. House training: Don't give your kitty free run of your home until your cat is house broken. Remember, prevention and praise are always more effective than scolding and punishment. Punishing your cat after she makes a mistake will just make her afraid of you.
2. When you're not there: When you are training your kitten appropriate litter box behavior you may want to consider confining your cat to one room one with a tile or concrete floor is best. Leave plenty of water and a warm sleeping place on one side of the room, and a fresh litter box on the other side.
3. Feeding: If your cat has a problem using the litter box, make sure your cat is on a regular feeding schedule until the problem is resolved. This helps establish a regular elimination schedule.

Litter Box Basics

Clean Litter Box: Keep the litter box clean and with fresh litter at all times. Clean it every day. If the box smells like urine, your cat will avoid it. 
Here�s a useful trick: rinsing out the litter box with water and a bit of vinegar or lemon juice (but not ammonia!) will neutralize most of the odor.
Placement: Location is important. Be sure the litter box is not too close to the cat�s eating and sleeping areas. At the same time, it needs to be accessible. If you have a big house or more than one cat, place additional litter boxes in different areas of the house.

Rewarding Success

Positive feedback is very effective in reinforcing appropriate litter box behavior. Encourage your cat to come to the litter box, and give your cat plenty of praise when they do. Teaching your cat that using a clean litter box is a good thing and is essential for changing the behavior of a cat that avoids the litter box because the box is dirty. When your cat eliminates in their box, give them gentle praise. When your cat is done, let them know how pleased you are by petting them and giving them a treat.

It's important to reinforce good behavior right after it occurs, so pay attention to the elimination schedule. Regular feeding is helpful, as is playing with your cat for a few minutes before and after feeding. Cats often eliminate after exercise. Another popular time, especially for kittens, is after waking up from a nap

To recap, keep a clean litter box, rule out physical ailments, establish a regular schedule and give your pet plenty of positive reinforcement. These are the best ways to cure your cat�s litter box problems. 
 

Scratching Furniture

If you have house cats, it's a good bet that you've suffered from shredded sofa syndrome at some point. Cats need to scratch in their nature. There's no way to stop it. While there are no humane ways to keep your cat from scratching, the good news is that there are effective ways to keep your new Ethan Allen classic from turning into a Goodwill reject.
 

Why do cats scratch in the first place?

Sharp claws are essential to survival for felines, and the continual scratching keeps your cat's claws sharp by stripping off old layers of nail. Without the ability to claw, cats wouldn�t be able to hunt, and the species never would have made it to modern times. Even in the modern world, razor-sharp claws help cats keep potential enemies and overly boisterous children at bay. Scratching and climbing are not only a natural instinct for cats, they're enjoyable activities; something that all cats love to do.
 

How to Modify Scratching Behavior

The first step to keeping your cat from clawing your upholstered furniture is to provide scratching posts and training them to use them. You should not allow your pet to roam unsupervised in your home until you can trust them to refrain from destroying your furniture. Since cats often have favorite scratching places (usually your most expensive piece of furniture), you should protect the item by keeping it covered with netting, plastic sheeting, or loose-weave fabric.

While they are being trained, keep your cat somewhere they can�t get at any valuable furniture, such as the garage or a spare bedroom. Obviously this is not a permanent solution, but it'll keep them out of trouble while you're away. Keep whatever confinement area you choose furnished with scratching and/or climbing posts. This is a good way to teach her to scratch and climb where you want them to.

Your cat might not initially like scratching only on its new post, Here are a few tips to get them interested. 

Put treats on the platforms. 
Attach strings to the platforms with their toys hanging so they will become interested.
Rub catnip onto the post. 

Cats often scratch right after they wake up as part of their stretching routine. Whenever your cat wakes from a nap, call them over to the post and scratch at it a few feet from the floor. Cats will often reach up to the post and stretch.
 

Buy or Build?

If you are handy, you can even build your own. Try a rough-cut (not smooth sanded) four-by-four, attached to a three-foot by three-foot piece of three-quarter-inch plywood as a base to keep it standing up. Platforms placed at various levels are also good resting spots. Use �non-looped carpet (use a comb or brush to check) to cover the post and platforms, and use carpet tacks to nail it into place. Virtually any carpet store sells inexpensive, odd-sized remnants. If construction is not your thing, a wide variety of scratching posts are available at your pet store, and if you're handy,

Always Reward Good Behavior

Remember, when trying to cure a scratching problem or prevent one from developing in the first place, the single most important element is praising and rewarding your cat for using their post and not the furniture. Don't try to force them to scratch by grasping their paws. Cats won�t like that one bit, and they will learn to see the post as some sort of punishment. The best way to teach your cat to scratch their post is rewards and praise. with proper use of praise, affection, and treats, then they will learn to enjoy to scratch the post instead of the furniture.

When your cat slips back into scratching the furniture or curtains, startling them with a sudden loud noise, keep several on hand in areas of the home with furniture so you can punish bad scratching behavior immediately. It's just as important to use punishment immediately after bad behavior as it to use praise and rewards right away for good behavior.